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View Full Version : Flat White vs. Mylar?



NJGardener
01-15-2007, 08:35 AM
My 8x8, vented, grow room will be constructed of waterproof sheet rock and will utilize a sliding glass door (patiotype). I undecided about the pro's and con's of just paining the interior with an ultra white flat paint (with mildew inhibitor) or covering the walls ceiling and sliding doors with Mylar. I realize the Mylar may be more prone to damage, but I don't think "traffic" will be a problem. How can I best adhere the Mylar to the walls/glass door?

NJGardener
01-21-2007, 02:27 PM
Does anyone have experience in "gluing" Mylar film to walls?
This seems to be the best way to ensure it will stay flat, but I don't know what kind of adhesive to use. I don't think a wallpaper type will work and I'm afraid the spray adhesives will make it impossible to align and smooth as it is applied to the wall.
Is one of the other reflective sheets better to use.
I'd prefer to not use the 2'4' aluminum panels.

David G.
01-21-2007, 08:01 PM
Flat white paint with a mildew inhibitor is actually a very good choice. Mylar would reflect a bit better, but flat white reflects light better than most people think. If you want your reflective surface to double as insulation then I would recommend our Astro Foil. If insulating the grow room isn't paramount, then mylar or even black & white poly would give you the best bang for your buck.

I've used several different methods in the past to hang mylar, including staples, spray cement, and industrial-strength double-sided tape.

The only aluminum panels I would consider using are those distributed by National Garden Wholesale. They are made of the same material used in their top-end reflectors (such as the Super Sun), but they are very expensive.

NJGardener
01-23-2007, 12:35 PM
Thank you for your response.
I like the idea that I might get a few more percentage points of reflection off the mylar -- if done right, but might lose that much or more if the application is not smooth.
Insulation not an issue here, but I may check out the product you mentioned.
I thought about applying the mylar to the wallboard panels before they are installed. I fugured if I made a tension holder for the sheet and lowered the whole sheet down onto the wall board with an adhesive on it, I might get a nice smooth application. Two problems with this thougth -- 1. to keep from marring the surface when it's handled and 2. how to screw it to the metal studs without destroying the coated surface!
May have do do some experimenting on a smaller scale first.
(Ran across some information elsewhere that indicates that a specialty wall paper paste might actually work and allow the mylar (2 mil) to be smoothed once it's on the wall. Drying is accomplished by the moisture being absorbed into the wallboard.)

FishHead
01-26-2007, 10:15 AM
NJ ... it seams like an aweful lot of work for a couple percent of additional light reflection?

I use the black/white plastic myself. So easy to work with, durable, and effective.

My concern with your approach would be that following such time investment, some level of damage could still occur to the mylar over time. If 'pasted' to your wall boards, repair could be difficult.

My creedo ... keep it simple.

Unregistered
03-15-2007, 12:52 AM
if you use plastic roof paint made by i believe aimes, it has a 98% reflectivity and a class A fire rating there website says it is 29.99 buck a gallon and covers 100 square feet. just google reflective roof paint. actually bghydro might want to offer this stuff next to the reflectix and mylar.

NJGardener
03-21-2007, 06:25 PM
I hadn't even thought about a reflective roof coating. I guess that makes good sense if the Ref # is really that high. I 'll check it out. Many thanks for the post!

Unregistered
03-22-2007, 04:40 AM
My 8x8, vented, grow room will be constructed of waterproof sheet rock and will utilize a sliding glass door (patiotype). I undecided about the pro's and con's of just paining the interior with an ultra white flat paint (with mildew inhibitor) or covering the walls ceiling and sliding doors with Mylar. I realize the Mylar may be more prone to damage, but I don't think "traffic" will be a problem. How can I best adhere the Mylar to the walls/glass door?


double sided tape will work

Unregistered
03-24-2007, 10:23 AM
Hey NJ, I also am thinking of mylar, and thought maybe spray adhesive would work. I will buy a can and try with a scrap peice. I think it would be avaliable at any craft store.
Hiigel

Unregistered
03-26-2007, 01:00 PM
If you haven't used Mylar then I would understand why pain may be a consideration. I can't urge one enough the big difference between Mylar and paint, glossy or not. All paint has natural light absorbance. If it didn't, you'd never be able to stare at it for more than a few hours without getting some type of headache. Try and look in a mirror with a light behind you for an hour and you will see what a "Very Big," difference Mylar has in light reflection.
Even the silver covered insulating boards (4'x8') don't offer half of the reflection properties of Mylar. ATTACHING IT TO WALL. You need not glue it or tape it to get it to stay. You just need a small electric stapler (Home Depot $25) using 1/2" staples. To keep it from ripping just cut small pieces of cardboard (1"x1") and use then at every point you staple. Put cardboard on top of Mylar and staple it in place over the Mylar. It will hold down the Mylar in place and keep it from ripping. If you think you need more, buy some aluminum tape from here of Home Depot and tape over the corners. The tape is incredibly sticky and will hold better than duct tape and will also shine. I cannot stress how little light you will lose with Mylar and how much benefit you will gain. The difference between my first crop of #$% without Mylar and those that have followed can be measured in elbows; as in plural.
Nothing compares to Mylar except mirrors.
TC - Greek

Unregistered
03-30-2007, 10:30 PM
i have just constructed my very first hydro-aero ponic system, and now it's time for the hidding of it, and i was going to use a small frame built out of pvc piping wrapped in thick black cloth, and i was going to use an adhesive an stick mylar to it. Then i read that Mylar conductrs alot of heat. My system is in a closet in a 2' by 2' Space. My was wondering if i got the mylar would it be too hot for my plant?

azkid110
04-28-2007, 08:40 PM
Hey, I've heard mylar can delaminate after a few years of use, and in high humidity. I picked up some stuff from a local hydroponics shop that isn't quite as reflective as mylar, but it is really thick, tear and puncture resistant, really good strong stuff, and it will not delaminate. I just used staple's to get it up on my wall. I highly recomend it, look around for it, it's a little more expencive than mylar, but IMO worth it.

Unregistered
06-06-2007, 12:51 PM
It's highly toxic if you inhale it. Since you'll need to spray in an enclosed space, you should use a gas mask of some kind. I wouldn't cheap out here -- a painter's face mask isn't going to cut it.

My vote: staple gun. Much cheaper, quicker, safer and easier. Getting the mylar 100% flat with glue or whatever method isn't going to be worth the hassle.

Second choice: industrial double-sided tape. There's a new kind just reviewed in Popular Mechanics, supposed to be superstrong.

Unregistered
11-18-2007, 07:09 PM
If you haven't used Mylar then I would understand why pain may be a consideration. I can't urge one enough the big difference between Mylar and paint, glossy or not. All paint has natural light absorbance. If it didn't, you'd never be able to stare at it for more than a few hours without getting some type of headache. Try and look in a mirror with a light behind you for an hour and you will see what a "Very Big," difference Mylar has in light reflection.
Even the silver covered insulating boards (4'x8') don't offer half of the reflection properties of Mylar. ATTACHING IT TO WALL. You need not glue it or tape it to get it to stay. You just need a small electric stapler (Home Depot $25) using 1/2" staples. To keep it from ripping just cut small pieces of cardboard (1"x1") and use then at every point you staple. Put cardboard on top of Mylar and staple it in place over the Mylar. It will hold down the Mylar in place and keep it from ripping. If you think you need more, buy some aluminum tape from here of Home Depot and tape over the corners. The tape is incredibly sticky and will hold better than duct tape and will also shine. I cannot stress how little light you will lose with Mylar and how much benefit you will gain. The difference between my first crop of #$% without Mylar and those that have followed can be measured in elbows; as in plural.
Nothing compares to Mylar except mirrors.
TC - Greek

Believe me mirrors are light eaters

Unregistered
12-25-2007, 06:16 AM
I do believe, if my memory serves me right. Flat white reflects 70-75% of light. Mylar reflects 90-95%. Hope this helps.

David G.
01-12-2008, 09:37 PM
If you want to see the latest in wall covering technology, check this product out:
http://www.bghydro.com/BGH/itemdesc.asp?ic=HLMYEGDS0410&eq=&Tp=

Easy-Grow Lightite Diamond Diffusion foil has to be hands-down the best wall covering we've ever seen, especially for the price. Check it out; we've tested it pretty extensively and can vouch for all the claims stated in the product description.

Guest
12-02-2008, 02:36 PM
Which one is more durable, mylar or flat white paint?

Unregistered
04-16-2010, 09:03 PM
Another way to hang mylar is using velcro. Cut one inch square pieces of velcro. Stick where needed. Typically it's the corners and in between the corners if the space is long and the mylar flops. Stick the velcro and pull the mylar tight before sticking it. The advantage you can adjust a bit.

pates32
03-21-2011, 12:13 AM
I feel mylar is good one and suits more.

Unregistered
06-15-2011, 07:46 AM
Thanks for the helpful information

willard3
07-05-2011, 12:05 PM
Maybe too simple: just hang the mylar, it will stay smooth. It's a grow room, not a gymnasium.

Unregistered
04-22-2012, 04:03 PM
I was just looking back at afew lines and seen roof coatings. I'd be wary of using it. I can almost smell it after it heated awhile under a 1000 watter. I myself agree keep it simple. Flat white paint. You wat top grade use sherwin williams ever clean paint. It's a flat washable enamel. GL hope your Gradens are green Keepem Green

doubleott05
07-16-2012, 07:32 AM
i line all my walls with aluminum foil cheap and easy

bluedubbing
08-05-2012, 01:49 PM
emergency blanket is the way to go you can buy 10 for 10 dollers on amazon .thay r 4 feet by 8 feet .it the best way to get Mylar . cheaper than buying it in a roll from a grow store. good luck with your grow

hydrounlimited
11-08-2012, 04:52 PM
I would strongly recommend pool flat white paint. It is only 1 or 2% less reflective and NO hot spots. Every little crease in the Mylar creates hot spots that make for uneven reflection that can burn leaves. Look at the best grow cabinets in production. They are flat white, not coated in Mylar.

kellypinto
01-28-2013, 11:06 PM
Thanks hydrounlimited for reply. I totally agree with you about recommending pool flat white paint. Its really look best grow set up.