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Thread: Ph problems

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
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    Default Thanks

    I will try changing the solution. I am pretty regular about checking TDS the count is usually around 1170-1240. I also use a continuous read PH meter and calibrate regularly. I was curious though....as I stated earlier I am in the transition to bloom stage, is it possible I converted too soon? I have tomatoes going and they looked ready for change but perhaps.....(in case you haven't guessed I am new to hydro). I don't want to stress them to death by reverting to vegetative solution...but will if it's gonna work. Please advise. Thanks Doug T.

  2. #12
    Unregistered Guest

    Default Low PH

    Quote Originally Posted by K4h2
    I am having troubles with low PH. I am using GH Flora series and am in the transition to bloom phase. Initially the PH remained constant at 5.8 temp mid 70's,it seems that now after about ten days or so the PH drifts daily. I add PH up and set the PH at 6.0....by the end of the day I find it has drifted down to 5.5 or less! What to do?????
    I have had the same problem when i used a 6 plant aeroponic system (with GH nutes and growrocks), but my PH will go even lower than 5. I raise it to 6.5 in the morning and by the next day it is at 4.8. Obviously, the roots turn brown, but is it the brown roots causing the PH to drop, or the drop in the PH that cause the roots to turn brown? What causes PH to fall so much?Will "rootrot" cause the PH to drop? I have used the aero Sytem b4 with no problems and super great results on veg, but every other time the whole cycle will be a loss bc i cannot control the pH. What causes PH to fall so quickly and dramatically? i'm using RO water w/ GH nutes and growrocks in the 6 plant aeroponic system? I have also have had the same problem in Grow buckets (GH nutes, RO water, Growrocks, powered by airpump)? Whats the deal with low PH?

  3. #13

    Default

    I believe that the GH nutrients have no pH buffers. When using DWC or Aero system it is better to invest a little more money in the nutrients. The best nutrient to use would be the Canna Aqua series.

    http://www.bghydro.com/BGH/itemdesc....CAVA01&eq=&Tp=

    Mix the nutrients let it stand for one hour so that the pH buffers in the nutrient solution can activate, then adjust the pH down to 5.8 (if necessary). Once you have done this then your nutrient will remain stable between 5.2 and 6. Besides the Canna Aqua having the pH buffers it also contains fulvic and humic acids which helps with nutrient absorption.

    Root rot will cause your pH to drop, the greater the root mass and the greater the rot problem the lower the pH will be. This will also hurt the root system even more thus making the root rot even worse. If you have a root rot problem and you are using a DWC or even and Aero system the product to cure the root rot is Flora Shield. We have had great results with this product. Mix the Flora Shield into a spray bottle (10ml/quart) and spray the roots directly. Make sure to drench the root system with this spray mix. Then flush for one day, dump the flush, and make a new nutrient mix. Repeat once a week if needed. Results are normally seen within 24-48 hours.
    Last edited by dhill; 06-07-2006 at 04:55 PM.
    David H.
    BGH Grow Expert
    www.bghydro.com

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Posts
    7

    Default What to do

    .K. so I get the idea that GH may not be ph stabilized....I am curious though. I used GH all through the Veg. stage with no ph issues....it seems that when I went transition to bloom my difficulties began. I have changed the solution as recommended and it seems that by the end of the first day..... I have checked the roots and do not see any rot or signs of rot. I am ordering the Flora Shield as suggested in this thread just to be safe, I am also using an Aero-Flo unit. I do not really want to change solutions as I bought the stuff by the gallon (not to say I won't try the Canna next time). Please advise

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    south carolina
    Posts
    33

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    are both of you using tap water...sometimes the chemicals and metals in your tap water can wreak havoc with your ph.

    That is why ro/distilled water is recommended for use in hydro systems.

    and David. I know GH Grow and Bloom don't have a buffer, but I though that the GH Micro did have a ph buffer.

    Just for clarification, what do you say? I know I read that somewhere.

    thanks.
    Leave a smaller footprint on Mother Earth...Grow your own! Visit us @www.hygronomics.com
    Roger

  6. #16
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    Jun 2006
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    south carolina
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    Quote Originally Posted by K4h2
    .K. so I get the idea that GH may not be ph stabilized....I am curious though. I used GH all through the Veg. stage with no ph issues....it seems that when I went transition to bloom my difficulties began. I have changed the solution as recommended and it seems that by the end of the first day..... I have checked the roots and do not see any rot or signs of rot. I am ordering the Flora Shield as suggested in this thread just to be safe, I am also using an Aero-Flo unit. I do not really want to change solutions as I bought the stuff by the gallon (not to say I won't try the Canna next time). Please advise
    I use 3-part as well as Pure blend Pro...I love both. I don't have ph problems with GH, but I do add calmag+ and Liquid Karma.
    perhaps they buffer the rez.

    get GH-ph/updown, and keep the nutrients that you bought, learn to use them. they work. peace
    Leave a smaller footprint on Mother Earth...Grow your own! Visit us @www.hygronomics.com
    Roger

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Posts
    7

    Default Stabilized?

    OK so tell me what you think about this. I flushed my roots with 1/2 Gal. plain H20 (well water with <55ppm), then I withdrew 3 gallons of solution and replaced them with plain water. The Ph rose on it's own to 5.8 and has stayed there since. I know my water Ph raised it some ( usually 6.9/7.0 out of tap), my question is why didn't my ppm suffer. I calibrate my stuff regularly and check it manually so I'm sure equipment is not the question. The ppm was 1170's to 1280's before I diluted it and now after a day or two the concentration and ph are stabile at 5.8 and 1130 to 1270's...any ideas?
    Thanks, Doug

  8. #18
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Los Angeles, CA
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    How many gallons of nutrient solution were in your system before you did the replacement? Approximately how much growing media does your system use?
    David G.
    BGH Forum Moderator
    www.bghydro.com

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Posts
    7

    Default Solution

    I had approx 15 gal in the system, I am using 2" rockwool cubes in 4"pots with clay pebbles. The plants would usually use +/- 3-5 gals p/wk. Each leg is good for 3-4 gallons as well
    Last edited by K4h2; 06-23-2006 at 02:40 PM.

  10. #20
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    Jun 2006
    Location
    south carolina
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    1-2 gallons won't affect ph substantially, in a 15 gallon rez and your Q about PPM's can only be the fact that your plants were uptaking pretty equal nute/water ratio. (GOOD)

    If your ppm's went down after dilution, and 1/2 gallon won't cause much effect on ppm's. probably about what you experienced. It appears by your post you didn't measure after dilution. whether the plants uptakes more nutes or water from rez, depends on your temps, humidity, transpiration of your plants, etc., so this could vary. I wouldn't sweat the small changes like this, imho....peace
    Leave a smaller footprint on Mother Earth...Grow your own! Visit us @www.hygronomics.com
    Roger

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